Small brands as models for Sustainability
As an advocate for small fashion businesses and sustainability in fashion, this is one of my favorite sayings. I sincerely believe the support of small, independent designer brands is an important path to sustainability in fashion. And heres a few reasons why…..
Motivation - Many designers who launch their own labels are motivated to do so after working at large fashion brands. They have witnessed the churn and waste and the irresponsible and abusive practices and they know it doesn’t have to be that way.
Cash flow - As a start up, cash flow alone is a driver to produce in small batches, order less raw materials, reuse patterns and head to production with tightly edited collections. When you are small, you cant keep cash tied up in excess inventory, unused materials and excessive samples. The sustainable fashion movement encourages the practice of upcycling deadstock and offering pre-order to test new styles, for independent designers this is simply smart business.
Short Supply Chains - Independent labels tend to source and produce locally where they can meet minimums, oversee the process and respond quickly to problems. While big brands face overhauling massive supply chains, the small labels work closely with their suppliers and producers with first hand knowledge of their standards. There are also talented designers like Christine Alcalay who create their own patterns and samples and others like Gary Graham who focus on rare textiles or on intricate dying processes like Flora Obscura.
Quality - Small businesses can’t compete on price or speed so they have to compete with good design and quality product. Creating something special with their unique POV and a deep understanding of their customer. Not more, but better.
Innovation - Despite less access and resources, innovation often happens in the small ateliers. Designers like Felder Felder work with bio-materials and view themselves as “doing the r&d for the wider industry.” Designer Mara Hoffman recently said to the CFDA “its often the small brands who get asked to bring new tech (like Circ) to market first because they are passionate, willing to experiment and bring the beauty and creativity.” Founders of tech start-ups focusing on no waste pattern software, 3D design and on-demand manufacturing have told me they prefer to first collaborate with independent designers to test, brainstorm and work out the kinks before launching to a broader market.
I'm not fooling myself, I know of many independent brands who do not care about their impact on people or planet. But while we work toward broad change and regulation, a good default is to #shopsmall
*While several have said versions of this, I'll credit Dr. Abu Sadat Muhammad Sayem at Manchester Fashion Institute who continues “Lots of smaller brands are working on similar concepts but catering to different aesthetics and forming a diverse tapestry. This is what makes the world go around, and not just seeing 10,000 pieces of the same brand.”