Tips On Sourcing Fabrics: From the Sourcing District
Love at first sight?
But then you find out the minimum required order or the toxic fiber content and its no longer an option. Sourcing is a constant challenge for independent brands who create in smaller qualities and are committed to responsible materials. I recently met Jay Arbetman from The Sourcing District in Chicago where he represents suppliers who have long track-records of success and service to the independent designer community. A few of his key sourcing tips include:
Freight has been, and is now in an increasing manner, a contributor to your total fabric cost. Remember, sample orders (5-20 yds) carry a significant per yard cost. Avoid express shipping as all express services (air freight) have recently grown exponentially in price. Fabric weight, width and the distance it travels all contribute to cost.
Look for both low MOQ and continuity. You want to perfect your samples and create demand before you go into production, but if the fabric you sampled is not available, you may have wasted a lot of important work (and money).
Consider the sustainable choices you may have. Sustainable fabrics are becoming more diverse and sustainability sometimes also means better!
For example:
Kendor is todays industry leader with a wide range of knit and woven materials in recycled polyester performance fabrics, post consumer textile waste, lyocell, eco types of viscose, organic cotton and hemp. They work in knitted and woven fabrics and most of their fabrics come from facilities with Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX certification. In addition, Kendor's physical plant was built to be efficient and as paperless as possible.
Gordon Fabrics LTD has a huge collection of lyocell (Tencel), Ecovero and BCI Cotton. Gorgeous sustainable prints as well as Lyocell twill, and Ecovero choices in woven and knit. Many dye plants this company uses have Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX certification.
Sextet Knits is a domestic manufacturer of fine knitted fabric. They have a range of “micro-modal" knits that are fabulous. Gorgeous quality in a wide variety of weights. Made in the USA using sustainable fibers and domestic production! An eco winner.
Mikan Printing is a domestic label, tag and narrow fabric printer that makes everything in North Carolina. They can work with organic or recycled paper stock.
For more information on these and other suppliers, contact Jay Arbetman at jay@thesourcingdistrict.com
For extensive information on both Sustainability and Sourcing Fabric and Materials, see those chapters in The Fashion Designer Survival Guide book.